Visit-Montenegro.com: Destination: Top of the World

Niksic – Sportsmen from Montenegro have won golden medals in European and World Championships, even in Olympic Games, albeit they haven’t yet put their foot on Mount Everest, also known as „The Roof of the World“. Alpinists from Niksic: Djordjije Vujicic, Dragutin Vujovic, Dusan Vujic and Marko Blecic, and Ivan Lakovic from Podgorica will attempt to conquer 8.848 meters high summit called „Mother of the Universe“, the name Tibetans coined for the highest peak in the world.

Five-member expedition from Montenegro will set off for the summit of Mount Everest on Saturday. The first documented person to successfully climb to this summit was the late Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and his Sherpa Tenzing Norgay of Nepal in 1953. Ever since, Mont Everest was conquered by 2.100 alpinists while more than 200 people tragically died on the Himalayan cliffs.

After climbing the highest European and South American peaks, Mont Blanc and Aconcagua, the five alpinists will attempt ascent of Everest from its northern, Nepal side.

Vujicic and Vujic know exactly what challenges to expect on their way to the ’roof of the world’. Two of them have attempted to climb to the summit of Everest in 1996. They have reached 8.760 meters, but they were forced to give up further ascent because of bad weather.
- Strong wind was blowing and it was snowing heavily, Sherpas (porters) who were with us quit too. We carried one of them down to camp since he couldn’t walk. Now I am certain that the Sherpas made the right decision – we probably wouldn’t pull through if we had continued with the expedition then – recalls Vujicic while snow storm tends not to cease on Vucje near Niksic.

Three other alpinists, members of „Javorak“ from Niksic, do not attach way too much of importance to the quest ahead them, at least not in words. There is no trace of self-praise, vanity or boasting. However, they do not lack self-confidence.
- We are all fit and well-prepared. Our goal is that all of us reach the summit, though a great success is even if just one completes the task. Ascent of Everest is like the sport’s finale. There are no favourites – says Vujovic.

Alpinists will set off for Everest through Belgrade-based agency “Extreme summit team”, whose owner Dragan Jaćimović climbed the top of the world in 2000.

Vujicic explains that Jacimovic is the team leader of expedition in which alpinists from other former ex-Yugoslav countries will take part as well.

- He organizes everything and coordinates climbing – says Vujicic emphasizing that Jacimovic knows Himalayas very well and that a lot of alpinists conquered Everest with him already.

According to the schedule, Montenegrin expedition will go from Podgorica to Belgrade on Saturday. A day later, they will set off for Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, where alpinists intend to supply themselves with some necessary equipment which they lack.

- We will get Chinese visas and then we are heading to base camp by jeep. This journey will take 10 days, we will pass the saddle at 5000 meters height above sea-level. We will spend every day climbing peaks, in order to acclimatise to height and temperature and adapt ourselves on low-oxygen conditions – says Vujicic.

Later on, we will transport entire equipment into ABC Camp at 6.500 meters height above sea-level with the assistance of Sherpas and yaks, Himalayan cattle which endure extreme cold quite well.

- After this we plan ascent to the Camp C1, at 7.000 m. We intend to sleep over there, and proceed climbing to the Camp C2, which is at 7.600 to 7.900 m. Up to this level we will not use oxygen bottles. Accordingly, we are about to finish acclimatization which is going to last around 30 days or so – explains Vujicic.

What follows is return to the Base Camp, at 5.200 m, and recovery from fatigue. Alpinists will wait for better weather conditions there to start ascent of the summit.

- We will follow the meteorologists forecast. Chinese even at 7.100 track meteorological characteristics, and there are also Sherpas who unmistakably forecast weather on Himalayas. Ascent begins when the weather is ideal. From the Camp C2 we climb to C3 at 8.300 meters. Alpinists will stay there shortly, to snack something and around 11 p.m. we are heading to the summit. We climb during the night in order to return in the daylight, since descend is much more dangerous. If everything goes according to the plan, we should be on the top around 9 or 10 a.m. – says Vujicic.

On the track from the Base Camp to the top – alpinists are faced with many challenges: snow, ice, wind, illness…

- Usually the temperature goes from -20 or -30 degrees, and it is even more cold when strong wind blows. There is a danger of height illness, first symptoms are headache and nausea, followed by disorientation and slow movements – explains Vujicic.

Preparations for conquering Everest begun last year, when they’ve climbed the highest peaks of Alps. Recent expedition to Aconcagua was practically the last step taken towards ascent of the Roof of the World.

-And after Everest we will go to the mountains, it is a way of life – answered Vujovic when asked of plans after planting the Montenegrin flag on the summit of Himalayas.

Sherpas indispensable

Vujicic emphasizes that Sherpas are not just porters, but educated alpinists who are often trained and educated in the Western Europe countries. These people climb Himalayas carrying on their back more than 50 kg weight.

- Since their early childhood, they carry load firstly to the base camp. Later, only the best of them go to the top. 50 kg weight on the backs doesn’t mean a heavy burden to them. They often carry load exceeding their body weight. They earn around 500 euros per expedition, which is very cheap compared to the heavy work they perform, but they are wealthy and appreciated people in their country- says Vujicic.
He mentioned that Sherpas deal with harsh weather conditions in the Himalayas with no problem, but viruses often attack them as soon as they get under 3000 meters.

Loose weight - up to 15 kilos

When set off from 8.300 meters for the summit, alpinists carry in their backpack, apart from necessary equipment, only two or three liters of liquid and chocolate bars. Before heading to the top they eat pasta or rice.

Alpinists loose their weight because of extreme physical effort.

- Back in 1996, some of them lost even 15 kg. It is individual, it depends on the organism and preparations – says Vujicic.

He and his mates train throughout the entire year. Trainings include running, riding a bicycle, paddling, swimming.

- We frequently set off with 15 kg-heavy backpacks on our backs and climb Montenegrin mountains. We rarely indulge in strength and endurance exercises – says Vujicic smiling.

He points out that ascent of Aconcagua is „the best and the cheapest“ training and preparation for Himalayas, since it shows how the organism reacts at 7.000 meters height above sea-level.

By S. R.